Man. Why vedic? Or Brendan or whatever. Why Brendan?

Why did you work on this site for months, almost revived it, then deleted it all in a, what I can only describe as, the most retarded hissy fit I have EVER witnessed on the internet?

I wrote the guy an angry farewell letter (actually it was just a reply), but then deleted it the next day or so because of .... you know this feeling when you really CARE, but get the impression noone else really cares and will shit on you for caring? Yes, that.

Brendan, would you axplain yourself? Or am I retarded and missed the explanation?

And while we're at it, why not recover the working parts of your edits, Brandan? You probably are a competent coder, it basically couldn't be worse as to what it is now. ?

Just stumbled over this, 'Quake 2 RTX' with the RTX lighting is free on steam.
Meaning you can be a lazy cunt like me and install with just 2 clicks.

I have so many questions...

is it possible to have binds? advanced binds, like fov/sens switches??

what are the *secret* ;> best visibility settings?

which character allows the most QL movement?

pls respond.

Is Quake Live working for you ?

*problem solved*

There are many periphals, mostly mice, coming with smooth, grippy rubber coating.

I have to admit, it feels really nice. Smooth tactile feel, a little more grip than say rough plastic, looks nice as well.

But there is a horrible downside.
The rubber coating will turn to gluey, sticky mush over the timespan of some years. In its final state, it will become very similar to the material used as the adhesive under stickers.
It sticks in an ugly, not-helpful way (makes the mousing experience worse), it smells horrible and will make the device coated look disgusting.

For some products, it will take 3 to 4 years, if you are lucky, 6 or more years, with some after only a year or two. But it will eventually happen to anything with rubber coating.

Counter-Measures
I researched this for the past few days, the solutions proposed by people was to sand down the goo, use heavy sollutants, both methods will attack the plastic and make it look ugly as hell. Final proposal was to use OIL. I tried it, used cooking oil and let it soak in, then scraped the rubber residue off with cloth. It is possible, but the end result will not look nice and take forever

My 2 Razer Salmosa, one used, one BRAND NEW package sealed are both decayed.
Some 3rd party ps3 Gamepad was so bad it even *infected* other stuff it came in contact with, that shit is so hard to get off it's insane.

So moral of the story, if you are smart never buy rubber coated stuff, it has build-in decay.

By the way I contacted Razer about the Salmosa, the answered with a generic text that I should clean the mouse. Well thanks, really helpful, Razer.

I feel the need to collect FACTS on the whole base VAC ban issue.

I'm curious to know what is fact and proven, what is speculation and what is purely made up.

So first, there is this topic
here

It links base's banned account
http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561198111038974/

From there I followed the "information" link on VAC. It states

What is VAC?
If a user connects to a VAC-Secured server from a computer with identifiable cheats installed, the VAC system will ban the user from playing that game on VAC-Secured servers in the future.

So I skipped through the list of valve anti-cheat enabled games. Quake Live is not on that list. Which can only mean two things: 1. the ban was NOT related to Quake Live, or 2. there is still another cheat detection for quake live running, which will identify as VAC, but not use VAC directly (or related to that, the ban was manual, but flagged as VAC afterwards).

Does anyone have detail knowledge on VAC, Quake Live anti cheat and can enlighten us?

Afterwards I read through the comments, where it was stated base said his account could have been ("was") hacked. Other comments said that would not be possible of today, to which again others answered, there are literally thousands of account overtakes a year and so it IS very possible.

So, FACTS:
-VAC ban
-At least one of base's Steam account games was tempered with in some malicious way (by whomever)

Specualation:
-Ban for Quake Live cheat
-Steam accounts cannot be hacked


What can you add to the list of facts?

(I will update the initial post with any new information)

..don't compromise.
I did. It went very wrong.

I own two fine Samsung 2233rz monitors and I use them as dual monitors. The 2233rz has the port standard of his time, DVI. For 120 Hz, dual link output is needed.

I got a new PC with graphics card HIS Radeon R9 280.
Ports available: 1xDVI dual, 1x HDMI (1.4a), 2x mini DisplayPort.

Now, DVI-D or DVI-I in dual link pinning will always give you 120Hz for at least 1080p and lower resolutions. Good old trusty DVI.

HDMI is basically useless. There is no way I know of to get even low resolutions at 120 Hz... can't even overrule the predefined resolution/refresh settings....60 Hz is max.

DisplayPort _should_ theoretically have been fine, but it isn't. Because to convert DVI to DisplayPort, an "active" adapter is needed, which is horribly expensive (80-100 eur). Such bullshit, why not think of this converting issue from the start.

So anyways, I made this thread to 1. warn you about HDMI and displayport, which are pure shit if you want compatibility,
and 2. ask if anyone maybe has found a solution or workaround for this?


Edit: I found a non-expensive active mDP to dual-link DVI adapter:
"Delock Adapter mini Displayport 1.2 DVI 4K Aktiv"
I emailed the manufacturer to ask if 120hz is possible, I'll update if I get an answer

Edit: Pretty late answer lol, because the manufacturers never replied to my inqiry, but in the meantime I bought the adapter and it works with 120hz. (but slightly buggy with sleep mode)

So as I took my 5 year old Salmosa out of hibernation, there was a surprise waiting: the nice rubber coating had disintegrated into a sticky mess of goo, the consistency of sticker residue.

I can't use that mouse like that and I have no idea on how to remove the coating like that, it sticks horribly.

That was a huge diappointment, I had only good experiences with the salmosa so far... back to non rubber coated mice I guess

Look at cyphers qlranks.com profile. He won two times the last month vs. players around 1600 ELO (himself around 2100) ELO. He lost -30 points in both those games.

The algorithm (or the way games are listed idk) needs some fixing.

Just wanted to tell you first hand why I think it is the perfect gaming monitor up until now.


- matt finished screen
there is nothing to argue as to why a high gloss surface would be better - it just isn't, glossy screens suck dick. 2233rz got a matte screen, perfect.

- picture ratio 16:10
I know our eyes have a flattened vision, but that's not all to it. we also can focus only on a small spot, rendering the theory of 'wider is better' useless. you want to edit a document, browse and so on. this is where ultra-wide screen ratios suck, so 16:10 is the last healty compromise next to good ol' 4:3 imo

- it just works
You don't have to get a degree in 'monitoring' to set the 2233rz up, it just works well out of the box.

- samsung know what they are doing
I hope so at least... they don't fuck with their customers like many other companies do in my experience. they deliver quality at a high success rate, seldom are their products defective. I like samsung.

- 'ghosting' is only there if you look for it hard
2233rz delivers near CRT performance even for the picky players. only if you start to obsess about monitor performance will you experience slight ghosting which most pro players wouldn't spot. so yay for gaming grade performance, fuck those extreme nitpickers for their misleading reviews

- it is affordable
now all those tech laymen sell a good 2233rz for few monies because they don't play a fast fps. best time to get one cheap

I just realized, Gamespot is out to bring down Nintendo. Look at the latest wii and 3ds games and then look at the gamespot scores. they are all so far below user votes or average critics votes it's absurd

Big N did a good job not bribing those whores, they don't deserve any money.

I got and android phone but as a total newb on this I don't even know what I can do with it and what's good apps, ways of entertainment, helpful stuff, etc.


Any recommendations?

Since many people seem to think Enotus MouseTest contains a *EDITED OUT*, which it does not, I executed the self-extracting exe file, then put the resulting files into a zip so everyone can enjoy this nice program without any *EDITED OUT* paranoia.

Here is the link:
Enotus MouseTest

Have fun!

Demiurge: Google STOP FLAGGING THIS POST

Some of you might have notice Cooller's new tick of scrolling the mouse wheel with use item binded.

I'm pretty sure he does this to cover up crucial in-game sounds. Can anyone confirm if/how this works?


On a side note, binding +movedown to wheel is hilarious, looks like the player model is having a seizure. Mean mousewheel cheats, awwww yeah!

Well there are none.

Can someone confirm or deny: do Salmosa and Abyssus have the same feet???

What are teh best using? Preferably those without accel

This what I know

cm/360
Avek 30 + WIN accel
Stermy ~23
Toxic ~23
Dem0n 10
Strenx 50
Spartie ~21
Dahang ~22
Python ~12
VoO 34
Chance 33

cm/360 + 'real accel' J
Madix: I=16.8 cm/360°, J=0.52
Rapha: I=25.3 cm/360°, J=0.25
Cypher: I=26.1 cm/360°, J=0.06
Linkje: I=27.5 cm/360°, J=0.056
Fox: I=28.2 cm/360°, J=0.057
Avek: I=34.6 cm/360°, J=>0.192 (+windows accel?!)
Fazz: I=37 cm/360°, J=0.28
Noctis: I=38.1 cm/360°, J=0.15 (senscap at I=22cm/360°)
Cooller: I=46.8 cm/360°, J=0.11
Zamuz: I=57.7 cm/360°, J=0.14
Lexer: I=63.5 cm/360°, J=0.89

(real accel is explained here http://www.esreality.com/?a=post&id=1370847)
(it is tricky for those wmo/imo/3.0 users as it turns out the dpi differs from 400 and 450 dpi with those mice, see http://www.esreality.com/?a=post&id=1667258 so I just calculated with 450 dpi assuming most players will have the newer model)

Corrections are welcome.

Megan Fox is just a shallow nothing of a humian being in a perfect body....yet when I look at her picture she is the smartest, bestest greatest person on earth. Nature is fucking sick.

is ok

There's a PC version of the Nintendo 64 game and it owns hard!

For free too, search words for google: "doom 64 pc"

Oh but you have to disable the mouse filter to make it playable with mouse, and I would also set sound to 16 bit.

It's a shame this game has no multiplayer that would have been the best.

I got a Salmosa and I love it! One thing bothered me though, on some surfaces the lift-off distance is pretty high, like half a cm. Not on all sufaces, but on most of my cloth pads I wanna use atm (mostly dark cloth pads are affected by this, bright pads or shinier surfaces seem fine).

But I found a fix! I taped over a part of the prism (the translucent plastic piece next to the mouse sensor that refracts the LED light on the mousing surface, in this case invisible infrared light) with the sticky part of a post-it note I cut into shape. You can see a picture in the comments. This way the light is dimmed, by that reducing the lift-off distance. But the light is still enough so there are no side effects like skipping or bad tracking. I confirmed this by using the "Enotus MouseTest" and by playing QL with a very low sensitivity (I tried 50 cm/360°).

One thing I discovered is the Salmosa is skippable on a Steelpad Qck on very low sensitivities. With other pads I tried it was fine (Qpad CT, Allsop, Ultron UMP-100->great pad by the way, func, Razer pro solution, icemat, generic cloth pad). But if you use under 30 cm/360° you probably won't even notice.


You can even set the lift-off distance exactly to your liking by varying the surface you tape over, I got ~1mm lift-off at first which was incredible but a bit weird to play with, so now I settled for ~2mm on raindrop/Qck.


On a side note, if you want to measure the lift-off distance, use stacks of CD's/DVD's. One has roughly the height of 1,25mm, so you can estimate the lift-off distance if the mouse stops tracking.

As not many people seem to know about this, here is an old FAQ about the unlagged netcode and the trade-off that results.

http://alternatefire.planetquake.gamespy.com/unlagged_faq.html

.

I finally got a genuine Allsop Raindrop pad and I must say I did not expect what I got.

The Allsop surface feels almost as smooth as the most slippery pads out there! Even with default Microsoft plastic gliders the Allsop is smoothness heaven. The sticking friction is a lot lower then most cloth pads, which is nice and makes it very precise with small mouse movements.

On the other hand if you like friction (ohhh yeah!) this might not be the right mousepad for you. Most friction give those cheap cloth pads for ~1$, followed by some of those oversize mousemats.

Friction is especially good for mouseaccel users, as it gives the ability to do the fastest motions and still stop the mouse very accurately. But it is something you don't really want to have when using a high sensitivity (especially not sticking friction), as it makes precise aiming harder.

So, I recently purchased a Diamondback 3G and am forced to install their drivers, because the mouse is ridiculously fast with XP default drivers.

I downloaded the drivers from razerzone.com and Antivir notifies me there is a virus in the .zip
Quick google search shows they are indeed distibuting virii.

One fundamental change: mg damage 4 per bullet.


That's it. Everything else is polishing which will be done eventually. New maps will be made, fullbright skins, bug fixing etc.

Discuss.

I am once again completely annoyed by my lame internet connection. 3 years ago I would have ruled the internets with 1mbit adsl and 50 ping, nowadays it seems that is not even enough to be able to compete in a 4on4...

Anyways, I tried the Spiterbot again. It is still great in some aspects, and totally lame in some others I will list now:

-the bot has reaction time zero. It rails you the moment one single pixel of your hitbox shows behind a corner. that is moronic.

-it also starts to dodge projectiles from any non-instant hit weapon the exact moment you fire, hence again reaction time zero. How is that supposed to be humalike?

-sometimes it collects armor and mega as it should, but at other times, without any appearant reason it just rushes with mg or gauntlet...

-even a skill 20 bot has mg accuracy of 50 and more regardless of the players dodging. god WHY???


So, if one could change these settings, which I guess is possible because there are countless "bot_" commands, to something more humanlike, the bot could be really incredible. I just can't figure out by myself which commands do what, and they are not explained in the readme and I don't know where else to look.